Improvement in corsets



UNITED STATES PATENT @Turion JULIA D. BANFIELD, or BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS.

-IMPROVEMENT IN CORSETS.

Specification forming part of Letters Patent No. 197,588, dated November 27, 1877-; application filed November 16,1877.

To all whom it may concern Be it known that I, J ULIA D. BANFLELD, of Boston, in the county of Suffolk and State of Massachusetts, have invented 'an Improved Corset, of which the following is a specication:

This invention relates to corsets, and hasbust portions provided with hair-cloth, which gives to the bust great elasticity coupled with lightness; also, in anovel stiffening composed of folded pieces of grass-cloth, or equivalent,

' substantially as described, in place of theusual bones or cane; also, in the combination with a corset, of a shoulder-brace, connected at one end with one side of the back of the corset, and adapted to be connected at its other end with the back ofthe opposite half of the corset.

Figure l represents, in perspective, one half of one form of corset embodying my invention, and a portion of the back of the other half broken away; Fig. 2, a detail, showing the bust part broken out to exhibit the haircloth; Fig. 3, a section on the line w rv, Fig. l; Fig. 4, an inner `side view of the bust portion. Fig.. 5 representsl the pieces composing the front or bust portions of one-half of a corset. Fig. 6 is a modification to be referred to; Fig.

7, a grass-cloth stiffening-strip to be used in-V stead of bone or cane; Fig. 8, amodified form of front piece.

The front of the corset shown in the drawings is composed, each half, of pieces a, a', b, o, d, e, e, and back pieces f, g, l1.. The pieces a and e, forming the extreme sides of the bust of the corset, are joined by a seam to gore-pieces a e', or these pieces a e may be cut, as in Fig. 6, with portions like a e forming apart thereof. The pieces b c are widened or made full, at 2 3 4, to form the central portion of the bust,

and contracted at 5 6 7 8 9 l0, opposite the vtop and bottom of the bust, and above the contracted portions 8 9 10 the upper ends of the pieces are again made full, as at 13 14, so as to cause the upper edge of the corset to round or turn away from the person, and prevent such upper edge from pressing the breast of the wearer unpleasantly. The upper portions -l1 12,0f the gore portions c e are also widened for a like purpose. The section, Fig. '3, shows the upper end i of the corset turned outward above the bust portion. These different pieces are stitched together Iedge to edge, in any usual way, and suitable pockets are formed to receive stiffening, bones, or cane, or a substitute therefor, devised by me, such substitutebeing grass-cloth or equivalent, folded into narrow strips, and inserted into the pockets, instead of the bone.

When sewing the edges of the pieces a, b, c, d, &c., together it is preferred to'place them as shown in Fig. 5.

This corset, as in others, is composed of two thicknesses of material. Between these two thicknesses, at the bust portion, I insert haircloth, j, (see Fig. 2,) eut to the proper shape. This hair-cloth is seamed in by the stitches uniting the parts a a. b c Z e e', and extends down to about the line 7c. The hair which composes the weft of the hair-cloth will 'extend preferably diagonally about, rather than vertically from, the top to the bottom of the bust, as I have ascertained that that enables the bust t0 more surely retain its original shape, and assume it after compression. I prefer to use two thicknesses of hair-cloth, and in such case the hair-weft will crossin in opposite directions.

This hair-cloth is quite stift', yet very elastic, .y

and easily retains itself in its original shape.

The bust stiened with hair-cloth is more agreeable to the person, as it is softer, lighter, and more flexible than a close series of parallel bones, and is cooler, for the hair-cloth permits ventilation to a considerable extent.

As a stiening material, instead of bones and cane, I propose to stifen this corset by stiffening-pieces made of thin folded grass cloth, as in Fig. 7, it having a weft of a stiffer material than its warp, extending from the upper to the lower edge of the corset, either in one or more pieces; but, instead of grass-cloth, bone or cane may be used, as now common. By the use of hair-cloth as the bust-stiffening, I am enabled to dispense with the strip of bone or cane commonly extended across the bust from side to side in other full-bust corsets. Full-bust corsets, as 'now made,.pres's `at the 'upper portion of the corset back upon the breast, and are uncomfortable to the wearer. To obviate such objection, the top edge of the corset is expanded above the protruding bust portion, as shown in Fig. 3.

To cause the bust portion to project more or less, I attach to the interior of the bust portion, at bottom and top, two connecting-pieces, Z m, which are provided with eyelets or equivalents, into which I run a cord or tape, n.' By means of this cord or tape I can draw the upper portion of the bust down, and cause the center of the bust to protrude more or less. This method of varying the size of the bust may be employed in a corset in which the haircloth stiffening is omitted.

I am aware that pieces of cloth have been sewed at the inside of the corset, at the sides of the bust, and that such pieces have had extended between them apiece of cloth stiened with cane and bones; but I am not aware that a corset-bust has ever been adjusted by drawing the bottom and top portions thereof together.

It is obviousthat a corset-bust drawn together from the bottom and top will cause the bust to assume a more natural position than if drawn together from the sides.

It is obvious that the broadened upper ends of the pieces composing the bust may be omitted, and yet the pieces will form a full bust. For a very full bust more than three pieces, such as b c d, may be employed.

The shouldenbrace p is connected with the corset-back at r, andyafter passing about the shoulder at that side of the corset, is passed behind the back of the person, and its end is suitably connected with a strap, s, secured to the other half, t, of the corset.

It is obvious that hair-cloth may be used in the full busts of corsets of any other well-known pattern different from the pattern of corset shown in the drawing.

Instead of hair-cloth, or with it, I may employ grass or cane cloth as an equivalent material; but I prefer thehair-cloth as being the most durable. A corset having its bust stiliened with hair-cloth may be washed without destroying the bust.

, byquilting, and that canvas has been used as a stiffener. The bust is more liable to bend longitudinally than transversely. By placing the hair transversely it gives the bust its greatest strength in the direction most needed.

If it is desired to form an abdominal corset, wherein a rounded portion is made to fit the abdomen,I have only to extend the pieces 5 6 7 downward, and provide them 'below the waist with full portions 2 3 4. In such case each piece 5 6 7 will have two broad portions like 2 3 4; but those at the lower end of the piece `will be broader than at the upper portion, to adjust them to the abdomen.

I have herein described that the two thiclc nesses of hair-cloth are so placed that the weft of hair crossesinopposite directions. So far as that feature is herein described I disclaim it, asIintend to hereafter le an application therefor. I have herein shown abosom-pad corset in which gores tapering toward each endare inserted between separate sections, theV edges of which are sewed together below the gore in a seam parallel' to the edge of the corset; but this feature I disclaim in this application,

as I propose to file a separate application there- 4 for.

I am aware that the use of hair-cloth for corsets has been described; so I do not broadly Y claim the employment of hair-cloth, except, as

hereinbefore described, for the formation of the bust.

I claim- 1 l 1. The combination, with the corset, of haircloth, or its described equivalent, inserted between the face and lining of the corset, and

cut and secured in the corset yto form a fullbust corset, Vsubstantially as described.

2. The combination, with a corset, of stiffening-pieces of folded cloth having a stifl weft, substantially as described.

3. In a full-bust corset, the outwardly-curved or expanded upper portion z', formed above the j top of the bust proper, substantially as and for the purpose described.

4. In a full-bust corset, abust-forming piece or pieces, made broad at or near the center of the bust, then contracted above such. broad portion, then made again broad to -form the upper edge of the corset, substantially as described. 4

5. A corset the` front portion of which is composed of three pieces, b c d, shaped as shown and described, and extended from the bottom to the top of the corset, and of pieces and gores a c at the side thereof, all substantially as described.

6. The gore-pieces a', cutto present awidened portion, 11, at the top, substantially as and for the purpose described.

7. As a new article of manufacture, a fullbust corset provided with meansfor drawing the upper and lower portions of the bust toward each other to adjust `the extent of proa tuberance of the bust, substantially as deA scribed.

8. The bust, and connecting-pieces joined thereto, at the upper and lower portions of the bust, in combination with the adjusting cord or tape, to operate to draw down the top of and expand the bust, substantially as described.

9. One or more bust-forming pieces located at the central portion of the bust, such pieces to this specification in the presence of tWo hsving one21 side made straight and the othr subscribing Witnesses. si e curve or bulged as at 2 and ma e smaller above and belmv the brodest part of/ JULIA D' BANFIELD' the curved portion 2, substantially as de- Witnesses: scribed; G. W. GREGORY,

In testimony whereof Ihave signedmy name W. J. PRATT. 

